In June 2006, I visited a school in Lunsar, Sierra Leone. It was my first trip upcountry having arrived at the beginning of the month and we were there to do some inspections of schools where children had received grants for uniforms. I would later find out more about the importance of school uniforms within Sierra Leone culture (more on that another day).

One of the stops was a Catholic school and since we were guests, it of course meant we would be treated to a song. One of the teachers, Sister Frances, asked her class of third-graders who wanted to start with the song. No hands went up. She surveyed the room, picked out the least shy student, pointed at her and exclaimed: "This one is ready to sing!"

I returned with a few photos and video, material for what turned out to be my first music project in the country. I was able to rip the audio from the video after I returned to Freetown. Using a small laptop, a copy of Cakewalk's Sonar DAW, the Atmosphere soft synth, some drum loops and an evening hunched over a pretty basic M-Audio MIDI controller, I remixed it. It's here.

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Around six weeks into my time in Sierra Leone, I took on the persona of my too expensive shoe and wrote a long running narrative about my existence. I think I did this one after a blistering hot, humid day. Since it was July, I probably got rained on on the way home.

Kinsei: first-world shoe in a third-world country
July 17th, 2006

I’m a duality: two separate yet equal parts, working in tandem to do great things. Left Foot. Right Foot. Though they live in an independent and autonomous state, they’re inseparable. They are two, but they are one. They are me. This is my story.

I know little of my history. What I can tell you is that I was conceived far away in a mind’s eye by a great visionary. He had seen those like me before, and he was displeased. He sought to build a better, more efficient version of what he saw around him. He constructed me with care from the finest materials and gave me a body for sacrifice and a soul for speed, if it were to be my destiny. And he saw that I was good.

I was sold into slavery by a man named Bruce in the early spring while I was still young. Bruce worked in a paradoxical way- he spoke of my virtues. He was my champion. He loved me like a father might yet in singing my praises, delivered me into a life of hardship. I had experienced nothing short of birth and darkness when I learned of my relocation. I knew neither my destination nor how my life would unfold. But even if I did, it wouldn’t have mattered. I was born to experience my fate, wherever it would lead me.

My master broke me in slowly. In the beginning, life was easy. Days were short and were spent navigating the streets of Europe. We moved from the cobblestone roads of Paris to the fields of Switzerland to the rolling hills of Tuscany. The work was light, the sun bathed me in its warmth for the first time, and the women were sweet.

Yet I was lonely. But this was my burden.

Several weeks were spent in isolation. I remember little, save a few dark journeys nestled in with some foul-smelling textiles. The dark times ended. Then resumed.

Light came suddenly, though not unexpectedly. The air grew warmer and more humid. In my soul - intrinsically - I became aware that I had entered my raison d’etre. The sand was sweet, but the pavement was hard. I spent my days in the sun, but unlike my Master, my color remained constant. It was only my soles that became red from the loose arid dirt that lined the streets here.

Today was particularly tough. My master brought me into the wilderness to test me. To tempt me. To break me. The beginning was deceptively easy. He either went slow and even when his speed increased, he kept me on the sand, where the remnants of small blue waves would refreshingly tickle my sides as they died on the beachhead. I drank it in.

Then things changed. Master decided more speed was necessary. Companions that had joined us faded into the distance and for a brief moment, we were airborne. The pavement almost broke me. I lost all consciousness, only to fade back in, then out, ripe with agony and delirious from the thick air. Master kept going, but I noticed his stride began to change. Like me, he felt the pain.

Like me, he felt pain. But his weakness was that he succumbed to it. Where I owned my pain, he was owned by his. He mistook my submission for acquiescence and paid the price.

In the forty-third minute, the bad foot and the bad air had caught up to him. He favored Left Foot and wheezed when the black smoke of the afternoon traffic engulfed his senses. We passed several piles of trash and pools of filthy water. I could hear Master hold his breath as he alternated between running and resting, trying to save face in the midst of his peers. I sensed we were moving closer to his – our – home.

The pavement faded and I felt the rough texture of the dirt and stones of Signal Hill. I sensed conversations in the smoky air and laughter. The conversations were in a language I recognized but was unable to decipher.

We passed men, women, and children. They were laughing with increasing intensity as we moved closer. Perhaps they were laughing at him- at us. The hill grew steeper and Master had a second wind.

It was over quickly. We were home. I felt us hobbling up a set of stairs, indicating our presence on the ceramic times. I felt myself being loosened and simultaneously stretched. We were kicked off and left in solitude by the door. Our movement had ceased and we were left to rest. For the time being. Out of the corner of my eye, I sensed Master sinking his feet into a bucket of ice water. He was finished, at least for today.

Many children in Africa suffer because of bad advice. In Sierra Leone, women are sometimes told to feed infants formula rather than breast milk. Parents literally squander their meager resources to watch their children waste away.

I'm not sure how "breast is best" translates into Krio but this video is a good explanation.

We made this on my last visit to Sierra Leone, in August 2008.

I know Sandra Lako, so I may be biased but it's tough to watch this and not come out with a great sense of respect for her commitment to the children of Sierra Leone. She left the country after having managed a children's clinic in the capital, Freetown, for four years. We need more people like this.

Several months ago, the domain to my Sierra Leone blog ran out. Blame my carelessness. To my disappointment, somebody snapped up the domain name. I didn't notice until a few weeks later and my little African pet project was supplanted by advertisements for herbal sex remedies.

I've now rescued my data (thank you, Internet Archive) and plan a subsection on this site where my old posts, some complete with post-university angst, will be republished.

Some of the classics will find their way to the main page. I'm surprised I misspelled the words "commission" and "because" (the latter twice), even though I was in a rush. I blame Firefox sans spell check. Here is what I wrote post-Kenya, pre-Sierra Leone.

02.06.06 // Destination: Freetown
May 30th, 2006

Welcome to livefromfreetown.com. I’ve had a pretty good time travelling through Europe and into Kenya, and am back home for 2 days until I fly to London, and then on to Freetown. Adventure awaits.

The in-flight magazine from Nairobi to Kisumu had a very interesting article about Sierra Leone. The State Department has declared the entire country safe for travel, including border areas, which were among the most dangerous, and there is a small but growing market for tourism. Despite that it is no longer the poorest country in the world (still among the poorest), I’m not convinced that this country is Club-Med.

Nevertheless, with peace, good governance, and foreign investment (much of which coming from the Chinese), Sierra Leone may have a bright future, although there is still much need.

Friday morning will be rushed because the plan is to get my visa from the High Commission in London. If the quality of a country’s website is any indicator of development, I’d venture that only North Korea is in worse shape. Anyways, these are some thoughts. I will wait to gather impressions once I arrive.

Yet to be determined is the quality of internet access, so I’m not sure how fast I’ll get videos online, but I’ll do my best.

Stay tuned…

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Live from… New Jersey?
June 2nd, 2006

Well, I hope New Jersey enjoyed their thunderstorms, because I sure didn’t enjoy their thunderstorms. An unfortunate combination of bad weather and even worse service from Continental meant I missed my connecting flight at Newark, even though I was at the airport when it left.

This means I’ll be in London tomorrow and Sunday nights, and will be arriving on Monday. If i have some time to kill (likely), I’ll take a picture of my sad face here at in front of McDonalds.

And this is where I spent the night…

Newark Airport

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Live from… Gatwick
June 4th, 2006

It isn’t Sierra Leone, but Gatwick Airport is a lot closer than New Jersey. At least I made it across the Atlantic. After a bit of negotiating, the airline agreed to cover my expenses for the weekend, and thus, I’m spending 2 nights at the Hilton here and eating £18.95 breakfasts. Delicious.

That’s pretty much the only thing of note that’s happened this weekend. The food. The delicious food. Other than that, it has been a lot of sitting around and watching TV, and wandering. After the last month, things really aren’t nearly as fun when you’re alone.

So today is finally go-time. I’ll be going downtown this morning to collect my visa from the High Commission for Sierra Leone, and then rushing back to catch the plane. There are two ways you can get from the airport downtown. Regular train service, or the Gatwick Express. A return on the Gatwick Express is £28, which is about $75. I think I’ll leave early this morning and take the el-cheapo, and then if I’m in a rush, I can take the express back. I’m on a budget…

That is really the last thing I have to do before I go, besides actually getting on the plane. My flight to Freetown leaves today at 3:30 pm, and arrives at about 8:30 pm. Catch you on the flip side.

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